by Introduction — A New Cultural Pulse in Fashion’s Runway DNA
In September 2018, when Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty premiered its first full-scale lingerie runway show during New York Fashion Week, the fashion world collectively exhaled. But it wasn’t just another celebrity fashion moment — it was a recalibration of runway culture itself. What had long been an industry dominated by a narrowly prescribed ideal suddenly leaned into a radically different aesthetic. On the Savage X Fenty stage, models of all shapes, sizes, genders, and backgrounds moved with confidence, sensuality, and joy. The effect was seismic: brands, institutions, and audiences worldwide were forced to re-evaluate what “diversity” really meant on the runway — not as a token gesture, but as a structural imperative.
Savage X Fenty did something few anticipated: it democratized desirability, disrupted visual hierarchies, and challenged entrenched beauty norms. It was not simply inclusive — it was insistently intersectional. Diversity ceased to be an add-on and became the very logic of the brand’s storytelling.
But how exactly did a lingerie brand transform runway standards on a global scale? To answer this, we must look beyond the spectacle — beyond the celebrity — and analyze the cultural, psychological, and institutional reverberations that swept through the fashion world and beyond.
1. The Historical Baseline: Runway Diversity Before Savage X Fenty
To appreciate the transformation, we first need to understand the baseline from which the industry was operating.
Historically, fashion runways have operated on what scholars call hegemonic aesthetic systems — visual regimes that enforce narrow standards of beauty, often privileging Eurocentric features, sylph-like bodies, and a limited range of gender expressions. As cultural theorist Joanne Entwistle has argued, fashion images do more than reflect aesthetics — they shape what societies perceive as “normal,” “desirable,” and “aspirational.” This effect is amplified through global media dissemination.
While there were intermittent inclusion efforts — a Black model here, a plus-size model there — these gestures often sat at the margins. They were symbolic rather than systemic. Critics described the industry’s approach to diversity as a “checkbox exercise” — a token presented to demonstrate progress without tangible shifts in infrastructure, creative control, or narrative authority.
Runways were still sites of exclusion, where a narrow range of bodies and identities were coded as legitimate bearers of fashion’s imaginative power.
2. Rihanna’s Vision: Inclusivity as Structural, Not Cosmetic
When Rihanna approached her lingerie line, Savage X Fenty, she did so with a radically different starting point: inclusivity as foundation, not decoration.
Rather than merely casting right-sized models or making occasional gestures toward representation, Rihanna envisioned a runway that visibly and joyfully embodied a broad spectrum of bodies and identities.
From the beginning, Savage X Fenty’s casting decisions were deliberate and politically informed:
- Size diversity spanning sample sizes to extended sizes.
- Gender diversity, with non-binary and male-presenting models staged alongside women.
- Racial diversity, honoring a multiplicity of heritages and skin tones.
- Age representation, moving beyond youth-centered paradigms.
This was not merely about statistical representation — it was about reshaping narrative centrality. In Savage X Fenty shows, models of diverse identities weren’t background fillers — they were the protagonists of the performance.
In public interviews, Rihanna articulated this ethos clearly: fashion should not be confined to an elite standard, but should “celebrate everyone.” She described lingerie as something all bodies “deserve to feel beautiful in,” a framing that shifts the cultural meaning of underwear from a private commodity to an act of self-recognition and empowerment.
This positioning mattered because it redefined what the runway stood for — from exclusion to visibility, from aspiration to affirmation.
3. Embodied Diversity Meets High Production — Aesthetic Innovations
Savage X Fenty’s runway was not a conventional fashion show — it was a spectacle rooted in performance art, choreography, and theatricality. But its core innovation lay in how diversity was woven into that spectacle:
3.1 The Body as Dance, Not Display
Models walked, but they also danced, interacted, and inhabited the stage in ways rarely seen in fashion shows. This shift disrupted the longstanding runway archetype — the silent, neutral, stoic model — and replaced it with somatic expression that foregrounded personality and presence over standardized poise.
In performance theory, this form of embodiment is significant: it refuses the passive objectification of bodies and instead insists on subjectivity. When a model dances, moves, or interacts, they are not merely visible — they are engaging in a communicative act that resonates with audiences on both cognitive and affective levels.
This shift transformed representation from being seen to being felt.
3.2 Aesthetic Calibration: Celebrating Nuance, Not Uniformity
Savage X Fenty did not flatten difference into a single category of “diverse bodies.” Instead, it showcased nuance — the particularities of muscle tone, body shape, height, gait, and personal style. The result was a rich aesthetic grammar in which no two bodies read the same, and no singular ideal was imposed.
From a semiotic standpoint, this was revolutionary. Fashion imagery historically relies on repetition and conformity to communicate desirability. Savage X Fenty’s imagery, by contrast, communicated desirability through variation — a visual language that said, in effect: beauty is plural.
This had profound implications for audiences who had long been taught to see only a narrow range of bodies as worthy of aesthetic attention.
4. Psychological Impacts: How Visibility Reframes Self-Perception
The cultural significance of Savage X Fenty extends beyond fashion commentary — it intersects with psychology, identity formation, and embodied self-concept.
4.1 Representation and the Mirror of Self-Worth
Social psychologists have long documented the importance of representation for self-esteem and identity formation. When individuals see their own bodies reflected positively in media imagery, it validates their sense of belonging in cultural spaces from which they have historically been excluded.
Savage X Fenty’s global reach through streaming platforms amplified this effect. Millions of viewers — many of whom had never seen bodies like theirs celebrated on such a scale — experienced a form of visual affirmation that had previously been rare or inaccessible.
This matters because media representations do not merely reflect culture — they shape aspirations, desires, and self-relations. For many viewers, seeing a body similar to their own on the Savage X Fenty runway was the difference between survival in silence and visibility with dignity.
4.2 Desire and Identity … Redefined
Rihanna’s strategy also reframed desire itself. Through Savage X Fenty, desire became inclusive, not exclusive; plural, not monolithic. This shift challenges long-standing cultural ideologies that associate desirability with specific body types or identities.
By democratizing desire — showing that beauty and sensuality are not confined to a single aesthetic — Savage X Fenty contests centuries of visual conditioning that equate desirability with normative standards.
From a psychosocial perspective, this normalization of varied desire narratives increases body acceptance and reduces the internalization of harmful beauty standards.
5. Global Echoes: Cross-Cultural Repercussions and Local Narratives
Savage X Fenty’s impact isn’t confined to Western fashion capitals — its influence radiates globally, reshaping conversations about bodies, beauty, and representation across cultural contexts.
5.1 Africa, the Caribbean, and the Global South
In regions where traditional media often imports beauty norms from the West, Savage X Fenty offered an alternative visual vocabulary — one that celebrates darker skin tones, fuller body types, and varied gender expressions.
For communities in Africa and the Caribbean, where postcolonial scholars have long critiqued the enduring influence of Eurocentric beauty standards, Savage X Fenty provided imagery that aligned more closely with local aesthetics and identities. It did not erase cultural specificity — it amplified it.
In spaces where self-image has been a site of cultural negotiation, the runway became a transnational mirror in which diverse beauty could be celebrated rather than marginally acknowledged.
5.2 Asia and the Reconfiguration of Beauty Hierarchies
In East and Southeast Asia, where rigid standards around skin tone, body shape, and size have deeply influenced fashion and media, Savage X Fenty catalyzed new dialogues about desirability. It encouraged local creators and brands to question: whose beauty is being centered, and whose remains invisible?
This has catalyzed initiatives within local fashion communities to diversify casting beyond traditional norms, highlighting the fluidity of beauty standards across cultures.
5.3 Latin America and the Politics of Embodiment
In Latin America, where body positivity movements intersect with strong cultural histories of sensual expression, Savage X Fenty’s runway imagery resonated with long-standing local frameworks of embodied confidence. It also provided a global stage for these narratives, connecting local expressions of body acceptance with global cultural discourses.
Across regions, the show became a reference point — not as a universal prescription, but as a catalyst for localized reinterpretation of runway norms.
6. Institutional Ripples: What Brands and Fashion Bodies Learned
Savage X Fenty’s influence extends far beyond visuals — it has instigated institutional questions that brands and fashion bodies can no longer ignore.
6.1 Casting as Narrative Authority
Runway casting has traditionally been a backstage decision with little public accountability. Savage X Fenty shifted casting into the realm of brand storytelling — where who appears on stage communicates as powerfully as the clothes themselves.
Luxury brands and fashion houses — from Paris to Tokyo — began to publicly justify their casting decisions not merely as aesthetic choices, but as cultural statements. The question shifted from “Who fits the brand?” to “Whose stories are being told?”
This reframing has pressured institutions to reckon with diversity not as a marketing add-on but as a narrative anchor.
6.2 Diversity Metrics Beyond Optics
What often distinguishes performative diversity from substantive change is measurement. Savage X Fenty’s approach — quantitatively and qualitatively expansive — pushed other brands to develop more robust diversity metrics:
- Tracking representation across gender identities, sizes, and ethnicities.
- Assessing creative control and decision-making power behind the scenes.
- Consulting community stakeholders and cultural practitioners in casting strategy.
By making diversity visible and measurable, the industry as a whole has moved toward accountability rather than symbolic gestures.
6.3 Economic Shifts: Acknowledging a Broader Market Reality
Economists and brand strategists have noted that inclusive marketing is not just ethically sound — it’s commercially viable. Savage X Fenty’s runaway success underscores the economic wisdom of addressing historically marginalized consumers whose purchasing power and cultural influence have long been underestimated.
This realization has encouraged brands to align profitability with inclusivity — a shift that challenges the notion that diversity is a niche strategy rather than a central business principle.
7. Critiques, Limitations, and Ongoing Challenges
No cultural transformation is without complexity or contestation. While Savage X Fenty’s influence is undeniable, it also invites critical questions that extend beyond celebration:
7.1 Representation vs. Structural Inclusion
Representation on the runway is vital, but it is not the endpoint of inclusion. Structural questions remain unaddressed in many fashion institutions:
- Who holds decision-making power in design and executive leadership?
- How are labor practices and garment production ethics aligned with inclusive values?
- Do runway narratives intersect with broader commitments to accessibility and equity in fashion ecosystems?
These questions remind us that runway diversity must connect with deeper institutional shifts to achieve long-term equity.
7.2 Intersectionality in Practice
While Savage X Fenty foregrounded many dimensions of diversity, the complexity of intersectionality — where race, class, ability, gender expression, and other identities intersect — continues to be a frontier for further evolution in fashion.
Authentic inclusion means not only placing diverse bodies on stage, but also engaging with the lived realities, histories, and socio-economic contexts that shape those bodies’ access to fashion spaces.
8. A Psychological and Cultural Reframe: Embodied Futures
Savage X Fenty’s deepest contribution may lie in its redefinition of how bodies matter in cultural imagination.
It moved diversity from the margins of the fashion spectacle into its center. It reframed the runway from a site of exclusion to a stage of possibility — where beauty is enacted, not prescribed; where bodies speak as cultural agents, not as passive subjects of aesthetic judgment.
Psychologically, this reframing diminishes the power of monolithic beauty standards and amplifies the legitimacy of embodied self-worth in its many forms. Culturally, it challenges global industries to expand their visual lexicons and narrative imaginaries.
In bridging these shifts, Savage X Fenty didn’t just rewrite runway diversity standards — it invited the world to rethink desirability, legitimacy, and representation itself.
9. Intersection with Popular Culture and Music
Savage X Fenty does not exist in isolation; it intersects dynamically with Rihanna’s broader presence in music and pop culture. Her platform as a global pop icon amplifies the runway’s cultural resonance. Fans from diverse backgrounds recognize her not only as a musician but as a cultural curator who blends performance, fashion, and identity. By bridging these industries, Rihanna transforms runway shows into multimedia events that reach audiences far beyond traditional fashion consumers. The shows integrate music, choreography, and celebrity collaborations, creating a multisensory experience where inclusivity is celebrated through movement, sound, and style. This cross-industry influence underscores how fashion and entertainment can coalesce to redefine social norms and cultural expectations on a global scale.
10. Challenging Ageist Norms in Fashion
Savage X Fenty also disrupts the fashion industry’s entrenched age biases. Whereas traditional runways favor youthful faces, Rihanna’s shows include models across generational lines, demonstrating that sensuality, confidence, and style are not confined to a particular age group. This choice confronts societal pressures that marginalize older bodies and encourages audiences to reconceptualize the temporality of beauty. Psychologically, it validates self-worth at all life stages, promoting a holistic understanding of aging that embraces vibrancy and individuality. By foregrounding age diversity, Savage X Fenty not only enriches aesthetic representation but also challenges industries worldwide to reassess outdated hierarchies, signaling that fashion’s relevance transcends chronological constraints and amplifying the notion that empowerment has no expiration date.
11. Accessibility and the Democratization of Fashion
Beyond visual representation, Savage X Fenty advances inclusivity through accessibility. Traditional luxury brands often maintain high barriers to entry, limiting engagement to elite consumer segments. Rihanna’s brand, however, integrates affordable price points, global online distribution, and size-inclusive collections. This democratization allows diverse audiences to participate in fashion culture actively, rather than merely observing it. In a sociological sense, it repositions fashion from a closed cultural sphere into a shared, participatory experience. By combining aspirational aesthetics with accessible design, Savage X Fenty shifts the fashion paradigm, proving that inclusivity is not just performative but operational. The brand signals that empowerment is linked to visibility, access, and the ability to engage with cultural production authentically.
12. Gender Fluidity and Expanding Runway Narratives
One of Savage X Fenty’s most transformative elements is its engagement with gender fluidity. The runway showcases models across a spectrum of gender identities, breaking the rigid binary that has historically dominated fashion. This visibility challenges audiences to rethink traditional associations between clothing, body, and identity. By normalizing non-binary and gender-expansive bodies in high-fashion contexts, Rihanna’s brand contributes to broader cultural acceptance of diverse gender expressions. Psychologically, such representation offers validation to individuals whose identities are often marginalized, providing social proof that fashion and style are not inherently gendered. Globally, it positions Savage X Fenty as a pioneering force in the intersection of fashion, gender, and cultural inclusivity.
13. Media Representation and the Algorithmic Amplification of Diversity
Savage X Fenty’s impact is magnified by its strategic use of digital media and streaming platforms. By broadcasting shows on accessible platforms, the brand circumvents traditional media gatekeeping, allowing audiences worldwide to witness inclusive representation firsthand. This algorithmic amplification ensures that diverse bodies and identities reach an expansive viewership, often in contexts where local media underrepresents them. Social media reactions, viral moments, and digital discourse extend the runway’s influence far beyond the initial performance, creating ripple effects in cultural perception and self-image. The integration of media, fashion, and identity in a digital age reinforces the idea that inclusivity is not merely a visual gesture but a globally participatory movement, bridging virtual and real-world cultural spaces.
14. The Future of Inclusivity: Lessons from Savage X Fenty
The long-term influence of Savage X Fenty lies in its capacity to inspire systemic change. By demonstrating that inclusivity enhances both cultural relevance and commercial success, Rihanna’s brand provides a blueprint for other fashion houses. Emerging designers, established luxury brands, and global retailers are increasingly experimenting with inclusive casting, size diversity, and intersectional narratives. Beyond aesthetics, the shows encourage ongoing dialogue about the structural practices behind fashion, from creative decision-making to audience engagement. The runway becomes a laboratory for cultural experimentation, inviting brands worldwide to interrogate who is seen, valued, and celebrated. Savage X Fenty’s legacy suggests that the future of fashion is not only visually diverse but ethically and psychologically inclusive, aligning cultural aspiration with collective empowerment.
Conclusion — The Runway After Savage X Fenty
When we talk about runway diversity today, we are no longer talking about isolated gestures. We are talking about an ecosystem that is increasingly aware of its own visual power, social responsibility, and cultural impact. Savage X Fenty catalyzed this shift by modeling diversity as a design principle rather than a decorative element.
The effects are measurable in industry trends, psychological scholarship on media representation, and the narratives that audiences now bring to fashion discourse globally. But perhaps the most enduring legacy is not in statistics or spectacles — it’s in the collective imagination that now allows multiple bodies, identities, and desires to be seen as complex, beautiful, and worthy of celebration.
The runway will never look the same — nor should it. Because lived bodies are never monolithic, and fashion that reflects life must be as diverse, expressive, and spirited as humanity itself.
Sources: Vogue, The New York Times, Harper’s Bazaar, BBC Culture, Business of Fashion, Psychology Today, The Guardian
